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      Chillies – A Survey of Published Recipes 1871 – 1921

      30 April 2023

      Tartare Sauce

      Put the yolks of two raw eggs into a basin with half a saltspoonful of salt, a little pepper, and half a teaspoonful each of French and English made mustard. Then add about half a pint of salad oil, drop by drop, stirring the sauce one way all the time. When it is very stiff, add one teaspoonful each of tarragon,  chillies and malt vinegar, and eight or ten drops of lemon juice. Stir in half a tablespoonful of mixed chopped capers and gherkins, and one tablespoonful of chopped tarragon, chervil, and parsley. The sauce should be made very stiff.[1]

      This was one of those ‘what the … ’ moments for me. I was researching the use of chilli in settler[2]  cuisine in Australia. I was expecting recipes for chutneys, pickles, and curries to have chillies[3] in them, but tartare sauce? As I continued researching I found chillies turning up in unexpected places.

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      Paul van Reyk
      My first essay on food was in Year 10 - people seemed to like it. It took me 56 years to come back to it, so I have a lot of catching up to do. My focus is on Anglo-Saxon settler culinary ways in Australia, roughly from the first days of colonisation to the 1960s - 1970s. I particularly write about stuff that has not been written about before but is very much a part of the Anglo-Saxon Australian table. I hope you enjoy reading as much as I do writing.

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