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      Chutney Men, Moral Panics and White Australia

      13 February 2025

      February 2025

      In 1891 Adam Mahomed, John Silva and Agnes Fleming were raided by police on the basis of ‘numerous complaints that the house (in which they lived) … was the nightly haunt of Indians and abandoned women who resorted thither to spend their nights in drunkenness and debauchery.’  

       On entering the building, the police ‘discovered, amid general filth, a quantity of bottles of chutney sauce, the corks of which were flying in all directions, exposing the contents in a state of advanced decomposition. Mahomed said that he sold this stuff while the corks remained in the bottles and thus earned his living.’ Mohamed was a hawker – a travelling salesman –  as were many other Indians, Afghans and Syrians in the late 1800s and early 1900s in Australia. His stock in trade was chutney.

      This court proceedings reads like a straightforward, if colourful, report of ‘immoral behaviour’ and a want of hygiene in preparation of food being commercially peddled. It is much more. It was held in a racialized context.

      Read more.


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      Paul van Reyk
      My first essay on food was in Year 10 - people seemed to like it. It took me 56 years to come back to it, so I have a lot of catching up to do. My focus is on Anglo-Saxon settler culinary ways in Australia, roughly from the first days of colonisation to the 1960s - 1970s. I particularly write about stuff that has not been written about before but is very much a part of the Anglo-Saxon Australian table. I hope you enjoy reading as much as I do writing.

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